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24 Boone Classics in a Day

Tue, 29 Nov 2011 11:21:00 -0500

By Brian Clevenger spring 2011 As I�m sure all climbers who live in this region are aware, Boone is home to some of the best bouldering in the country. With hundreds of established problems ranging from V0-V13, Boone offers something for everyone. Three areas in particular are the focus of most climbers� attention. Blowing Rock, Grandmother, and Lost Cove each offer a unique sample of the stone and climbing styles in this region. So, with the warm weather moving in, the time for sending projects is coming to a close and the need to analyze other options arises. Of course, one could haul a rope out to one of the many local crags and do a bit of sport, trad, or even top roping. Though this is an option, everyone knows in their heart that bouldering is a more pure and fun form of climbing. With this in mind, I decided to pick a day to do as much bouldering as possible at all three areas. The idea was inspired by a couple of friends and a recent Climbing magazine article (yes, you can still find the occasional inspiration in print format despite the heavy trend towards video media). The article cited several �epic day� challenges throughout the country. The Wanker 101 is a tester from North Mountain at Hueco Tanks, TX, involving 101 problems ranging from V0-V2. The Old Glory Circuit at Flagstaff Mtn., CO is 21 classics from V1-V5. The Horse Pens 39 at HP40 in Steele, AL is 39 of the hardest V0-V2s you�ve ever tried. Many areas throughout the nation have these amazing circuit challenges, so why not Boone? With no real idea of what to expect, I compiled a list of all V5 boulder problems from each area. The list totaled 22 at the main areas, and 9 others from more obscure spots. Why V5? Well, it seemed like the right grade for an optimum fun to challenging ratio. Also, this grade offers problems of every type: highball and lowball, classic and obscure, steep and powerful, crimpy and technical, slabs and yes, even a dyno. So, with the idea planted and loosely organized, it wasn�t long before I had to get out and try it. I called up my friend Zack Silberman and we decided to head out the next morning. Typical of Boone weather, the forecast called for a 30% chance of rain all day. We knew these were not good odds, but we decided to go for it anyway. Zack brought his video camera and I brought my DSLR to chronicle the venture. We got a slightly later start than planned due to a stop at the bank, Wal-Mart, 2 gas stations (trying to find a deal on Monster energy drinks), and a house with a dog on the roof. We finally reached Blowing Rock around 10:00am and started at the Mushroom Boulder. We quickly dispatched Low Boy, The Fin SDS, and Stems and Caps. Low Boy was the first V5 that I ever did, and definitely one of my favorites (despite it being a super lowball). The Fin SDS involves one crux move at the start, followed by one of the most classic features at Blowing Rock. Stems and Caps is a fairly beta-intensive right to left traverse on small edges and sloping dishes. With our first 3 problems finished, we headed down the trail to the lower area. I had picked Blowing Rock as the first stop of the day so that we could do Roof of Death while fresh. As the name implies, it is a tall, striking piece of rock with a sketchy topout that is difficult to spot. I had only done the problem once before and wasn�t very comfortable on it, but Zack and I were both able to do it first go! No time to celebrate, as there were still 4 more problems to be done at Blowing Rock. We moved the pads to the right a little to get on a problem called Raw Terror. Again, as the name implies, this is a committing climb with a heady topout and I was glad to do it quickly. Next on the list was Right Maddox. I hadn�t done this climb in years, but I remember it as one of my favorites. Even though it isn�t the most impressive feature, it climbs very well. I still think it is one of the best V5s in Boone. After that, we walked up to the 45 Degree wall and got on Stonehouse. This is another one of my favorites. It is a crimpy traverse with crux that involves a big cross move off of a left hand Gaston. Our final problem at Blowing Rock was Left 45. I never really cared for this problem, and still don�t. It has a weird landing for the first moves, and a bit of a funky topout that I never got the hang of. Either way, we did it quickly and moved on. A true sense of haste had not really set in at this point. We were still filming and taking photos of every climb until we realized just how much time had passed. As we finished our final climbs and began the hike out, we were running over an hour behind schedule. The next stop was on Hwy. 221. Most of the climbing along this road is pretty spread out, which takes a lot of extra time with driving, unpacking, packing, etc. We stopped at The Dump to do Doug Reed Roof first. This is definitely one of my favorites in the area, with steep climbing, crimps, jugs, and fairly big moves. Then we drove a bit farther to 2 more problems. Undercling Undercling is a climb that I had tried in the past and was unable to do. It requires both power and delicate footwork, and is definitely hard for the grade. I had been hesitant to try this problem for years now (scared that I would get shut down) so I was very glad to do it first go. It definitely feels good to see the improvement that has taken place over the years. Right across the road is a problem called Sign of the Times. It is another one that I think is pretty difficult for the grade. Rather than power, this problem requires a touch of balance and technique. Neither of us made it look pretty, but Zack and I finished this one off and set out for Grandmother. Grandmother Mtn. definitely had the largest amount of V5s on our list. Unfortunately, time was running short, and our energy level was dropping. It was already nearing 5:00pm as we reached the first boulder. Darkman is a problem that I had done countless times in the past, so I was able to knock it out pretty easily. It may be a bit contrived, but it climbs really well. We were going to the next climb when we saw some friends at the Great Wall. They were just finishing up their session, but we decided to try Have Guns, Will Travel while we were there. It is a V7 traverse, and probably wasn�t the best idea of the day. I did it first go, but it took way too much energy. Next on the list is the ultra-classic Mighty Mouse. After several flailing attempts, it was Zack�s beta that saw me to the top of this gem. At this point, I was becoming much more aware of how little time we had left. I wanted to do as many climbs as possible, so we went around the corner to do 6 Pac For Shur and Biggie Smalls. At V6 and V3, they weren�t on the original list, but I think they�re both really fun climbs. After that, we headed down to the Engine Block boulder. Throttle is a great feature and has a reputation as many people�s first V5. Nitrous Oxide is a bit more challenging to me, requiring more technique and finesse. When we were done, we did a climb on the Chainsaw Boulder called Big Guns. It isn�t the most inspiring line, but the movement is pretty fun. Right across the trail from this is a climb called Scottish Ar�te. It is a very technical slab climb, so it took a good bit of effort from me and did not look pretty. Next to it is a classic V6 called Shinister. I had never tried this climb, as it has a reputation for splitting shins, but I decided to give it a go. Thanks to Zack�s beta, I was able to commit to the crux and fire it first go. Now we were really running out of time. It was becoming dark and our minds and muscles were at their limits. The next stop was at the Mad Skills Wall. There is a V5 dyno on this wall, but both of us had our doubts about being able to do it. I decided to use the excuse that it was too wet on the topout, and Zen Master would be a better choice. Zen Master is a V8, but I had done it a couple times before and felt confident that I could do it again. Trying this climb really demonstrated my level of fatigue. The problem is only four moves long, but I was struggling to stay on for even that long. After a handful of really close tries, I was finally able to finish it off. Farther down the trail is a problem called Drama Queen. Neither of us had done it before and it was really tall. We decided to save it for another day and check out the lowball, Crimping Nickels instead (note: I have since gone back and done Drama Queen, and it may very well be my new favorite V5). Crimping Nickels was one of the first V5s that I had done and I thought it fit my style really well. I was wrong. This problem easily took the most effort out of anything all day. Zack did it first go and I got shut down until I blacked out from trying hard and suddenly found myself at the top. There were only two problems remaining at Grandmother now! I got on Joey�s Ar�te at Long Wall and pretty much scared myself into doing it first try. Zack got on a Problem called Undertoe and with the literal final attempt of the day, made it through the crux and into the topout. Unfortunately, he found it to be wet and had to bail. The sun had set and we could barely see well enough to pack up our gear. It was time to leave. I hadn�t felt this bad in a long time. My body and fingers hurt with pure exhaustion, I hadn�t eaten anything of significant substance for the past 10 hours, and my mind was telling me to just quit. Everything. Unfortunately, my car was parked on the opposite side of the boulder field. I jogged out to take advantage of the final couple minutes of light and drove around to meet Zack at the other parking lot. We were done! That was definitely the most that I have ever been beaten down by climbing. Sitting and driving back had never felt so good. I was initially disappointed at not finishing off everything on our list. We didn�t even make it to Lost Cove. Even so, when we stopped to think about the epic that had just taken place, there was a sense of pride. We had put forth a really impressive effort and learned the formula for success, should we ever decide to try again. So what makes a climb a classic? Is it the history of the climb, the highball factor, the fun factor, the aesthetics, or level of sandbagging? Probably. The best way to find out is to go and climb it yourself! If you would like to plan a similar adventure, I would recommend the following: � Pick a grade that you are comfortable climbing within 1 or 2 tries � Compile a list of all of the climbs of that grade at major areas using rockclimbing.com and 8a.nu (grades are subjective and you will find discrepancies; make a judgment call) � Convince a couple of people that climb at the same level as you to go with you (I wouldn�t go on this adventure with more than 2 other people or it will simply take too much time) � Plan on an early start! Or bring a lantern. You will want more time than you think � Bring a lot of food and water. Snack food will not cut it for a day like this � Pack light and move quickly. You will want more time than you think � Have a super fun time experiencing as many of Boone�s boulder problems as physically possible! The Final List: 1. Low Boy V5 2. The Fin SDS V5 3. Stems and Caps V5 4. Roof of Death V5 5. Raw Terror V6 6. Right Maddox V5 7. Stonehouse V5 8. Left 45 V5 9. Doug Reed Roof V5 10. Undercling Undercling V5 11. Sign of the Times V5 12. Darkman V5 13. Have Guns, Will Travel V7 14. Mighty Mouse V5 15. 6 Pac For Shur V6 16. Biggie Smalls V3 17. Throttle V5 18. Nitrous Oxide V5 19. Big Guns V5 20. Scottish Ar�te V5 21. Shinister V6 22. Zen Master V8 23. Crimping Nickels V5 24. Joey�s Ar�te V5

The Linville Gorge

Wed, 03 Aug 2011 15:42:23 -0400

Linville Gorge was formed by the Linville River, which now meanders some 2,000 feet below the gorge�s rim. This wilderness area is part of Pisgah National Forest, located in the Mountains of N.C. The gorge offers breathtaking views, a variety of climbing options, exciting rappels, and possibly a Tyrolean Traverse. Primitive camping, suitable for groups, is available about a quarter mile from the parking lot and picnic area. In the summer, Linville Gorge is a nice break from the heat and humidity of the Piedmont. Fall brings an array of colors to the forest, in addition to perfect camping weather. In spring, the rhododendrons and mountain laurel are in beautiful bloom.

Ryan Beasley: PCIA Lead Climbing Instructor/ PCIA Instructor Trainer/ AMGA Single Pitch Instructor

Tue, 21 Jun 2011 19:40:00 -0400

Ryan Beasley is the director and main guide at Rock Dimensions. He began climbing in North Carolina more than 20 years ago, and during that time has put up a variety of first ascents in the state. Ryan has pursued his passion extensively in the southeastern U.S., and has also traveled throughout the western states to experience new areas and for further adventure in the form of big wall climbing in Yosemite and Zion National Parks. Ryan has successfully completed the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) Rock Instructor Course (1999) and is AMGA Top-rope certified (2000, 2005 and 2007). He recently completed his Single Pitch Instructor certification in Fall of 2007. Ryan is also an Instructor Trainer with the Professional Climbing Instructors Association (PCIA). He is a certified Wilderness First Responder through SOLO. Ryan�s professional experience prior to Rock Dimensions includes instructing with the North Carolina Outward Bound School, the former Charlotte Climbing Center, UNC-Charlotte, Davidson College, and the Mecklenburg and Piedmont Councils, BSA. Ryan graduated from Appalachian State University with a Degree in Recreation Management.

Jenny Allen: Assistant Director / PCIA Base Managed Climbing Instructor

Tue, 21 Jun 2011 18:00:00 -0400

Jenny Allen was first introduced to climbing in 1995 on The Great Arch (5.5) of Stone Mountain, NC. Since then she has had the opportunity to climb in some of the most spectacular and classic areas in the U.S. � from the Red River Gorge, New River Gorge and Seneca Rocks of the East Coast, to western destinations such as Joshua Tree, Red Rocks, Hueco Tanks, and areas in Colorado and Wyoming. Part of the attraction to climbing is the adventure of traveling to new places. Two of Jenny�s most memorable travel �high-lights� include trekking on Mount Kilimanjaro in Tanzania, and Cotopaxi in Ecuador. Jenny has been working for Rock Dimensions in various roles since its beginning. Prior to her full time involvement with Rock Dimensions, Jenny also worked with the experiential education company Blue Ridge Learning Centers, Inc., based out of Todd, NC. Before Jenny�s arrival in the High Country, she earned a Bachelor of Arts degree in Middle School Education from the University of North Carolina at Wilmington, and enthusiastically taught middle school in the NC public school system for six years. Jenny is a certified Base Managed Climbing Instructor with the Professional Climbing Instructors Association (PCIA) and is a certified Wilderness First Responder through SOLO.

Joel McCombs / PCIA Single Pitch Climbing Instructor and AMGA SPI

Mon, 20 Jun 2011 19:28:00 -0400

Growing up in Chattanooga, Tennessee, Joel McCombs was introduced to climbing at a young age. After moving away from the Southern Appalachians at age 12, it became difficult for him to pursue his love of climbing. His desire to return to the Southern Appalachians drove him to attend Appalachian State University. Soon he emerged himself again in the climbing culture and rediscovered his passion for climbing. Since then he has climbed all over the East coast and put up a new multi-pitch route at Ship Rock, North Carolina. Joel has also spent time climbing the famed granite monoliths of Yosemite National in California. Beyond his personal experience, Joel began more formal training by taking courses on rock climbing at Appalachian State. In 2007 Joel gained his Toprope Site Manager certification with the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA). In May 2008 he earned his Single Pitch Instructor certification with the Professional Climbing Instructor Association (PCIA). Joel is also a certified Wilderness First Responder + CPR for the Professional through SOLO Wilderness Medicine. He graduated in December of 2006 with a degree in Recreation Management, concentrating in Outdoor Experiential Education and a minor in Geography. Joel loves sharing his passion for climbing with others and takes great pride in his strong commitment to safety.

Evan (aka Big Country) Snipes: PCIA Single Pitch/Lead Climbing Instructor

Sun, 19 Jun 2011 11:10:00 -0400

Evan was born and raised right next door to Boone in the neighboring Avery Country, where he was taught to rock climb at the young age of 12 by his father Al Snipes who instilled �old school� traditional NC ethics in him. It was not until after high school that he realized his true passion for the outdoors and rock climbing, and began to indulge extensively in the sport. Evan practically made Grandfather Mountain his home for a few years, climbing almost exclusively around the Blue Ridge Parkway at Ship Rock and all over the 221 circuit. Then he branched out and discovered other places in North Carolina such as Rumbling Bald, as well as his soon to be favorite place the New River Gorge in Fayetteville, WV where he visits as often as possible. Evan graduated from Appalachian State University�s Recreation Management program in May 2008 with a concentration in Outdoor Experiential Education and a minor in Psychology. At ASU he has been a part of classes concentrating on ropes course and climbing site facilitation, as well as Wilderness First Aid and CPR/AED certification. In May 2008 Evan earned certification through the Professional Climbing Instructors Association (PCIA) as a Top Managed Climbing Instructor, and added Single Pitch/Lead Instructor to his certification in October 2008. Evan is primarily a traditional climber who will occasionally indulge in some sport climbing or bouldering. His accomplishments include traditional routes up to 5.11a, sport routes 5.11c, and V6 bouldering.

Daniel Shope - PCIA Single Pitch Climbing Instructor

Sat, 18 Jun 2011 12:21:00 -0400

Zach Hypes - PCIA Top Managed Climbing Instructor

Fri, 10 Jun 2011 10:50:21 -0400

Zach Hypes was born in Boone and grew up exploring the forest and cliffs that surround the town. Climbing came natural to Zach as he couldn�t resist romping around on the boulders that dot the landscape. In time he turned from the boulders and began to climb the longer routes of Ship Rock and the Linville Gorge. The adventure and total immersion that climbing offers are what keeps Zach coming back to rocks again and again. He is not always climbing though; whether he is biking, snowboarding, cross country skiing or just hiking around, Zach is always excited to enjoy the many outdoor activities this area has to offer. When he is not playing outside, Zach is taking classes at Appalachian State University where he is an art education major. His passion for teaching extends beyond the arts; Zach is excited to teach anyone who wants to learn how to climb safely. Zach�s certifications include Top Managed Climbing Instructor through the Professional Climbing Instructors Association (PCIA) and Wilderness First Responder through the Wilderness Medical Institute. Come climb with Rock Dimensions and let Zach take you out for an unforgettable day on the rock!

Discovery Course

Mon, 28 Jun 2010 19:11:26 -0400

Discover yourself on the Discovery CourseTM ! � Find your edge on the Tension Traverse... � Test your balance on the Catwalk ... � Face your fear of heights on the Cargo Nets and Cable Crossings ... � Reach the peak with a climb up to the Crow's Nest ... � Fulfill your need for an adrenaline rush with an exhilarating ride down the Zip Line or a breathtaking drop off the Giant Swing! The half-day program will cultivate a spirit of teamwork, support and encouragement as you navigate your way through unique obstacles that become increasingly more difficult the higher you climb in the course. More than 20 different activities designed and built by a Level 4 Professional Vendor Member of the Association of Challenge Course Technology (ACCT) make up the Discovery CourseTM. Set your own goals, choose your own challenges, and boost your confidence all within the context of a fun and exciting day on the ropes! When: Call to schedule Where: Blowing Rock, NC Cost: $85/person Ages: 8 years and older Sign up: Pre-registration with Rock Dimensions is required for participation. Pre-registration includes a 50% deposit, medical form, and liability agreement. Directions will be provided upon registration. Rock Dimensions Climbing Guides 828-265-3544 www.rockdimensions.com

Crowders Mountain State Park

Thu, 04 Feb 2010 17:10:57 -0500

CROWDERS MOUNTAIN STATE PARK Crowders Mountain is located 25 miles west of Charlotte, near Gastonia, NC. At an elevation of 1,625 feet, the 800-foot pinnacles of Crowders are actually a part of the Appalachian chain that formed millions of years ago. On a clear day, Charlotte can be seen from the tops of these peaks. The sheer cliffs abound with footholds and handholds for beginner and intermediate climbers. Crowders Mountain is a good option for winter trips on its easy south facing rock sites. Spring and fall are also great seasons. Crowders Mtn. S.P. website: http://www.ncparks.gov/Visit/parks/crmo/main.php