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Welcome to Rock Dimensions' Bulletin Board
Friday, September 10 2010 @ 07:34 AM EDT

The Amphitheater, Linville Gorge, The Daddy 5.6

Saturday, February 18 2006 @ 10:31 AM EST
Contributed by: Ryan
Views: 1,475

Linville Gorge Climbing Trip July 25, 2005
The Daddy - 5.6
Bill Cherney

My climbing partner and guide for the day was Ryan Beasley, owner of Rock Dimensions Guide Service in Boone NC. Ryan is a personable thirties something NC native. He makes a great climbing partner and demonstrates all the qualities one would expect in a professional guide. I enjoyed my time climbing with him and highly recommend him to anyone seeking climbing in the area. We discovered we have mutual acquaintances with Swis Stockton of Granite Arches Guide Service in Chattanooga TN. I shared a couple of humorous stories of Swis carrying Caressa’s teddy bear up the Nose on Looking Glass Rock. Hopefully Ryan will use that to his advantage.

Our weather was pleasant at the start with w nice breeze. But unfortunately we knew what was in store for us. Record high temperatures in the Carolinas. Some locations predicting 100 degrees with 110 heat indices. We got our gear out divided up what we would each carry. Beside my own personal climbing gear of harness helmet, shoes etc. I would carry a 60 meter rope, first aid kit, water, about 10 runners with biners. Ryan carried another rope, his gear, water, and the lead rack. Ha. I was quite amazed at how little gear he was taking. He later confided he felt he brought a little too much. Of course remember this is from my perspective of a newbie leader and self proclaimed gear whore. I think his rack consisted of 1 set of nuts, about 10 cams with some of them doubles in the smaller sizes. It looked like he had nothing over a #3 Camalot. A couple of cordelettes, a few biners and the runners and biners I was carrying. That was it. Experience and skill leads to carrying less weight.

With packs loaded we took off from the Table Rock parking area at 0740.

The approach and return involves about 3 miles hiking each way. You descend almost 1500 feet from the high point of the main trail to the top of the Mummy Buttress. The first mile is relatively easy going traveling along a well beaten path on the ridgeline. You depart this section and turn right towards the river on hard to maneuver trails with numerous fallen trees and limbs to climb over. Not too bad on the way in but definitely a challenge on the way back out with grades of 15 to 18 percent. We followed the trail first down to the top of the Prow on the North side of the Amphitheatre to take in the spectacular view of the Gorge with the river below. Portions of the Gorge are over 2000 feet deep. Returning back up the trail from the Prow we then break off to the right following a narrow, barely visible path around the rim of the Amphitheatre towards the Mummy Buttress. At times you are at the edge of shear drops with sketchy footing so caution is necessary. Looping around passing Reggae Wall to where the south side of the Buttress connects to the main wall and then up on top of the Buttress.

Once on top were once again afforded a view of the gorge including the prominent Shortoff Mountain to the south and the Prow across the Amphitheater. It’s easy to see why the Prow is also considered a spectacular climb with wild exposure. I think that one might be next on the list. On top of the buttress we geared up with the exception of our climbing shoes. We opted to continue on down to the base in our trail shoes and then carry them up the climb. We stashed Ryan’s larger pack with our extra water, some snacks and a couple pieces of gear here and proceeded to make our way down to the base of the Buttress.

There is a gulley between the buttress and the main wall that you scramble down about a half of the way and then you must rappel down approximately 60 feet. The rappel anchor is a large rock that had been slung with several pieces of webbing, and one piece of 7 or 8 mm cord with two screw links and a rap ring. After checking the existing gear and determining it was suitable we rappelled down to the bottom of the gully. From here you work your way down around the base of the buttress passing the start of the Mummy. Proceed about 200 feet more around the corner towards the river and that is the start of the Daddy. The Linville River with its ever present roar is about 150 to 200 feet below the start of the climb. The climb tops out about 650 to 700 feet above the river making this about a 500 foot climb.

Climbing. This is what we came for right? By the time we made the base, flaked the ropes, did our safety checks and were ready to climb it was 1030. Just shy of three hours from the time we left the parking lot to start climbing.

Ryan led the pitches and I followed and cleaned the gear, trailing a second tope and carrying the pack with our approach shoes, water, small first aid kit and our snacks for lunch. Not usually accustomed to climbing with a pack and trailing a rope there were a couple of times when I really felt the added drag of the rope and pack.

1st pitch started in a corner up to a good sized ledge 140 feet

2nd Pitch heads up angling right and finishes on a ledge with a tree 80 feet

3rd Pitch was short vertical gain, mainly traversing across a ledge to line up the next pitch 90 feet

4th pitch face climbing with plenty of features finishing in a cove. 80 feet

4th pitch….after the first piece of gear it was run out more than my comfort level maybe 25 to 30 feet with out placing a piece. A fall would have hit the ledge we were belaying from

5th pitch starts out face climbing then up to a corner, stemming up then face climbing up and over the top. 80 feet

Well I felt I climbed well. Didn’t fall…..until the last move. Must have gone brain dead or something. Reaching for the top and …..weeeeee off I went. I think I just did not think the moves out well. As soon as I regained my stance I climbed right up and out. I think I should have told Ryan I was just testing his belay. Oh well.

As it turned out it was a good decision to climb the Daddy instead of the Mummy. Our route was in the shade all day except for the last pitch. The Mummy was exposed to direct sun for most of the route. On a day with record high temps the shade during the climbing was most welcome. We left the ground at 1030 and topped out at 1330, 3 hours for the 5 pitches. Certainly not speed climbing but then who would want to with such fantastic views. Better to take our time and soak it up.

On the return trip the sun and humidity made its presence known. Up hill and over numerous obstacles, deadfall, trees etc. The once seeming light 16-20 pound pack suddenly felt like 40. Drenched in sweat and racing heartbeat required numerous stops for this old guy to get a breather. Once up on the main trail along the ridge the going was much easier. The time for the return was about an hour and 15 minutes. But of course we were leaving from the top of the climb this time. I could have easily had another 20 ounces of water on the return.

We returned back to the parking lot about 1515. About 7.5 hours after we left that morning. This is one of those climbs you really want to do. 4.5 hours of hiking and other non climbing time for the three hours of climbing. But it was really worth it. A great experience.

Once back in the parking lot Paige met us there and with her usual over the top reception with ice cold water, cheese, crackers, nuts and smoked salmon for us to snack on. And oh yeah she also brought us a nice assortment of cold North Carolina brew. It only took a few minutes for me to forget the hot tiring hike back.

A great day in North Carolina’s Linville Gorge!

Lessons Learned, some I already knew but always worth reinforcing.

1. I never would have found it on my own. When time is short there is no substitute for experience local knowledge.

2. It does not take a lot of gear if you know what you are doing. There is no way I could have trucked my usual load including the kitchen sink there and back. At least not in the same day!

3. The climb might not be the hardest part. Don’t underestimate the difficulty and time required for the approach and retreat.

4. In a wilderness environment the prospect for an “epic” is significant. Even something as minor as a sprained ankle could be a problem. You better be prepared to take care of yourself. Advanced care and rescue help could be hours or a day away. Filing a trip plan would be wise. Letting someone know when you were expected back.

5. Plan carefully your water requirements. Don’t forget the return trip.

6. Get comfy when belaying; find a sitting position if possible. Get the pack off. But boy don’t drop it!

7. Leader clips the anchor when leaving the belay station.

8. Get that first directional piece of gear in.

9. Save biners, girth hitch cam slings with runners. Saves one.

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